3D Woven
Denim
Five-pocket jeans woven to shape on an industrial Jacquard loom. Panels, seam lines and graphics come off the loom together, on the machinery denim mills already run.
WornThe jeans at Kingpins Amsterdam, April 2024. The sculpture graphic on the leg is woven, not printed.
Stitch length
Pre-consumer waste
Water use
Microplastics
Biodegradable
Estimated potential versus conventional cut-and-sew jeans, from the thesis evaluation.
01 · The idea
The pattern is the fabric.
Conventional jeans start as flat denim that is cut into panels and sewn back together. Around a fifth of that fabric never makes it into the jeans.
Multi-layer Jacquard weaving flips the order. The loom weaves every panel into one roll, with the seam lines and graphics already in place. What remains is a guided cut and a short assembly.
02 · The pair
The finished pair.
Photographed as woven. Scroll to take it apart.
Front04 details
- 01Waistband
A denser twill structure marks the band.
- 02Front pocket
Pocket layers come off the loom with the leg panel.
- 03Hexagon structure
Two woven layers form one 12 oz denim.
- 04Weft
60/40 hemp and cotton, about 30% organic hemp overall.
Back03 details
- 01Back pocket
A diamond mesh structure draws the pocket.
- 02Belt
Denim belt with D-ring closure.
- 03Yoke
The yoke shape is drawn with a darker structure.
03 · Roll to jeans
Woven, cut, worn.
Swipe, drag or use the arrows. Or just keep scrolling.
04 · Design language
Three variables. One loom.
Every surface effect comes from how the threads bind, not from print or trims.
The same pattern, turned. Left and right twill run the pattern in different directions.
Different weave structures sit side by side in one fabric.
Warp and weft swap places to draw an image in contrast.
01 / 03 · OrientationThe same pattern, turned. Left and right twill run the pattern in different directions.
02 / 03 · StructureDifferent weave structures sit side by side in one fabric.
03 / 03 · GraphicWarp and weft swap places to draw an image in contrast.
CombinedMix and match all three for a unique result from the same loom.
05 · Editions
Woven four ways.
One zero waste pattern. Swapping the map of bindings turns a standard pair into a pattern or a graphic edition, cut for women and men.
Select a pair to enlarge
06 · Process
Six stages, yarn to feedback.
Scroll or select a stage
07 · Tech pack
Specified for the factory.
The tech pack for the standard five-pocket, written for Diamond Denim: front, fly, pocket, back and pocket bag specs, with stitch types and placements, and bar tacks in place of rivets.
08 · Details
Denim codes, woven in.
The fifth pocket, the label and the sculpture graphic are part of the weave. Nothing to peel off or separate before recycling.
Fifth pocket, woven in place
09 · Exhibited
From thesis to trade show.
Most of the 16 professionals who reviewed the jeans at Kingpins were interested in the technology. They expect commercial use within 3 to 5 years, at no more than 25% extra production cost.
April 2024Kingpins Loves Education panel and light installation. Reviewed by 16 industry professionals.
The jeans in the Kingpins light installation
Event photos: Kingpins Amsterdam, April 2024
Eindhoven, October 2024Part of the Secrid Talent Podium, in the section by Milou Voorwinden. The jeans shown with woven panels and yarn.
Secrid Talent Podium, Dutch Design Week 2024
Munich, 2025A similar setup, this time with the graphic edition of the jeans.
The graphic edition at Munich Fabric Start
Conclusion
It already works on the looms mills run today.
Saving material, labour, waste and water. A proof of concept developed to show the commercial value of this research for future-oriented fashion brands.
ChairDr. Holly McQuillan, TU Delft
MentorMilou Voorwinden, TU Delft
Industry partnerDiamond Denim: Maurizio Baldi, Farhan Afzal
Denim expertMohsin Sajid, Endrime
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